Readers of The Aperitif, our quarterly magazine, are well aware of my unabashed affection for Pietra Santa Winery in California's Cienega Valley. This winery has all of the bases covered. It's a strikingly beautiful property that grows fruit with incredible balance and character. The winery's owners are authentic and passionate people while their winemaker (Alessio Carli) is undeniably charismatic and uniquely talented.

I am enamored with all things that wear the Pietra Santa label while being especially fond of the Italian varietals produced at this California winery. Many Cal-Ital wines are pleasing while failing to allow the Italian varieties to express their true nature. Pietra Santa's wines suffer no such malady. Their Sangiovese is not entirely Tuscan in style (after all, it is made in California) but it is a proud and honest expression of the grape. In this way the wine is very Tuscan in nature being a sum of the grape, soils, and climate.

This wine is best enjoyed with food. Its generous natural acidity and intense, dry fruit marry well with all meat and fowl and shine with tomato sauces. Give this wine ample time to breathe before serving (an hour would be good).